Well I am not really even sure you could call it a surf, more of a knee board.
I guess my boyfriend was sick of hearing me talk about how much I wanted to get out there with him. I have the board, I even have the perfect Spring suit.
I just lacked the courage.
I am OBSESSED with the ocean, I live on it, I try and get in everyday but I am still terrified by it.
I marvel at the power of the water itself and all the creatures beneath it.
However he is a very good teacher- he just forced me out there. He got on the back of the board and paddled me out there and we caught the first eve tandem, quite the site for the shore dwellers I am sure. But the second one he believed in me and sent me off to paddle alone, as I took off on the wave I could hear him screaming for me to jump up, I was paralysed with fear and I only got to my knees but I felt the wave pick me up and the board glide along the crest.